Berry Bros. & Rudd (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 23 year old 1989, 46%

Our second Bunna’, this is pale of hue with a surprising hint of salinity alongside a whiff of lemon sherbet, and an aroma like wet linen, while a floury maltiness runs below. Age however has twisted the fruits into the verge of musty over-ripeness. It’s explosive and spicy and, even though this is only 46%, it is hot. Water picks up the acidity before there’s a huge hit of warming ginger as the kiss-off. £89