Caol Ila 2002 Feis Ile 2014 bottling, 55.5%

Restrained, ozonic, with no great smokiness to open, but there is a touch of green grass behind meadow flowers and salt-washed stones so typical of the distillery. With water another marker—drying fishing nets—comes through, with breaths of the sea. Subtle and refined. More smoke on the palate, where it’s like a flowering currant bush on fire. Great balance of different elements: smoke, fragrance, oil, acidity. With water, real saltiness comes through. Very good. £99