This Glencadam variant has been finished for 20 months in ruby port pipes. The result is a whisky that departs from its younger stablemate by offering a nose of rose petals, milk chocolate, stewed rhubarb, sweet red wine, and black pepper. The same ‘new paper’ note survives, however. Viscous on the palate; initially strawberries, then spicy milk chocolate, caramel, and candied cherries. Remaining sweet in the finish, with nutmeg and darker chocolate notes. £35