Robert Mondavi 1998 To-Kalon Vineyard Reserve Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley)

Country: US / To-Kalon Vineyard Reserve
Variety: Fumé Blanc California
Winery: Robert Mondavi / Napa Valley

This wine, from the man who invented the name “Fumé Blanc,” is not for everyone. It’s way on the citrus, hay, and gooseberry side of the chart (as it is in every vintage), making for a lean, tart, almost sharp drink that some will find sour despite softening with 6% Sémillon and lees aging. Others will appreciate the sleek, almost severe elegance. Again, a wine that absolutely demands the right foods.