Here’s one in the eye for people who grumble about high prices for age statement whisky. Sherry aromas, good-quality plain chocolate, clove-studded oranges, coffee beans, and fat sultanas. Thick, gloopy texture with lashings of sherry, mouth-drawing tannins, a pleasant buzz of wood spices, peppery chocolate, and coffee dregs. It emerges from a savory middle section to a burnt orange salvation, followed by a hot, oaky finish. £148