Region: Oak Knoll District
Winery: Monticello Vineyards
It’s pretty hard in mouth-numbing tannins. But it’s also vastly rich in blackberries, dark chocolate, cassis liqueur, peppery spices, smoky oak, and a note of bacon, with all its umami attractions. Showing power but not much finesse now, it will hold through 2017. Beyond that, its future is risky.